Correct watering is the most critical factor to the success of transplanting a tree.  Tree roots are always damaged during the transplanting process.  For sufficient water uptake to occur, the root ball of a newly planted tree must be kept moist, but not saturated. The area outside of the root ball also should be watered to encourage new root growth into the surrounding soil.

    

     Avoid overwatering.  Heavy clay soils in our area hold water for extended periods, thus too much water is usually the biggest problem.  Automatic sprinklers kill more trees than any other cause.  In most cases the sprinkler system provides more than enough water for your trees. 

   

     Newly sodded lawns should be kept as dry as possible without damaging the grass.  This will help the grass roots to go deeper in your soil in search of water, and also the trees will not become over watered.  Watering is not necessary during periods of adequate rainfall. 

    

 

Spaded Trees - Every four days for the first three weeks, once a week after that.

 

Ball and Burlap trees - Every three days for the first three weeks, once a week after that.

 

Containerized Trees - Every two days for the first three weeks, twice a week after that.

 

All trees with sprinkler systems - One good watering at planting is ussually sufficient. 

 

 

 

    Mulching is the next most important practice that you can do to improve the health of your newly planted tree.   Mulch can nearly double plant growth in the first few years after planting and can also mean the difference of life and death to trees that are under stress.  Mulching conserves moisture and insulates roots from heat and cold extremes.  Proper mulching provides a well-groomed appearance, and prevents damage from mowers and weed trimmers. The mulch should have a diameter of at least four feet.  The mulch should start at a depth on one inch at the base of the tree and taper quickly up to three to four inches.   

     

     The worst thing you can do for your tree is to sod up to the trunk.  First, this causes excess moisture on the bark at the base of the trunk, which could lead to the rotting of the bark and ultimately death.  Second, the grass will compete with the tree, causing the tree to grow more slowly.

 

 

 

     For many years it was recommended that tree trunks be wrapped to protect them from sunscald or freeze injury.  Research has shown that tree wraps may not always protect trunks from damage, and in fact, can cause, hide and increase problems. In addition, tree wrap covers the photosynthetic tissues of the trunk, preventing the production of food that is needed by the young tree.

 

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     The purpose staking a tree is to prevent the newly planted tree from tipping in the wind. If at all possible, staking and guying systems should not be used, but in windy, exposed areas this practice is sometimes appropriate.  

    

     If your tree shifts or is slightly crooked you will need to put a stake in the ground to straighten the tree.  Always use some protection for the bark where the rope attaches to the tree.   A old piece of hose will work, if you have none the local hardware store sells hose by the foot.  A  6" piece will work in most situations.  Place a stake approximately 8' from the tree in the opposite direction that the tree is leaning.  Tie the rope to the tree, and pull it until the tree is straight. Now, attach it to the stake.  Wood is the safest type of stake to use.  A piece of duct tape wrapped over the end of the stake will also make the stake safer for people and animals.  Leave the tree staked for one full growing season.

 

 

 

     Fertilizing is a very important for the health of your trees.  It should only be done in the spring,  Tree spikes should be placed no closer than the outside edge of the hole that we dug when planting the tree.  Follow the fertilizer label for the quantity necessary.